Sunday, May 5, 2013

PAA10- Moc Project Instructions


Hey Sewers!

Here is the instruction guide for our moccasin project! Please read and examine the instructions/pictures thoroughly and ask if you need clarification. I am excited to see how your projects turn out :)

It is an honour to pass on this tradition to you, and I would ask that as you learn and practice, you treat this project with respect and gratitude. Although the techniques and textiles we are using are not fully in keeping with tradition, the knowledge and skills you will be gaining have been passed on through Indigenous cultures and families for thousands and thousands of years.

Here we go!


Step 1: Pattern and Materials


1. Because working with real tanned hide requires a lot of hand sewing and time (and money), I have opted to use a microsuede (.5m) textile that mimics the look and feel of real leather, but saves us time (and $) because it can be sewn with a sewing machine. Microsuede can be found in the upholstery section of any fabric store!

2. To add rigidity to the microsuede, we will be using a heavy-weight, iron on interfacing (.3m).

3. To add some warmth, we will be using cotton quilt batting (.3m), which is usually used for insulating quilts, but will add some softness and warmth to your mocs!

4. Thread- for sewing: We need thread that coordinates with our microsuede.

5. Thread- for beading: Waxed thread (kind of like floss)- found at craft and some fabric stores.

6. Beads- multi-coloured teeny, tiny beads- can be found at craft stores and specialty textile stores.

7. Hand needles- you will need 1 regular hand sewing needle and 1 beading needle (super thin so the beads can slip over it).

8. Pattern- we will be utilizing a template from Martha Stewart's website. Disregard the sizing information as it is not very accurate. Enlarge the pattern until it is about 2.5" larger than the length of your foot. **Measure with heel pushed to back of pattern. If you don't have access to a copier, this method might work to increase the pattern size without distorting the proportions. If your foot is wide, add an extra .5" to .75" to the sides of the pattern.

PS: Don't worry about the pattern- it all works out in the end, trust me!


Step 2: Cutting out Moc Pieces


Once your pattern has been enlarged to the proper size for your feet, pin pattern to the microsuede and cut. This will be one moc, for the second moc, MAKE SURE TO FLIP THE PATTERN over (opposite foot), pin and cut again.

Pin to fabric and cut.


Woohoo! There's one!
Now, FLIP over the pattern (so the slit is on the right) and cut one more!

Woohoo! Now you've got two!


Step 3: Interfacing:

Lay out your interfacing on an ironing board, bumpy side UP. The bumps will melt into glue once heat is applied.

Next, lay your two moc pieces on top of the interfacing, ensuring that the FUZZY side is facing up.

We are going to adhere the interfacing to the microsuede to add stiffness, or rigidity. This will make your mocs easier to bead, but also give them a more genuine leather-y feel! You will not see the interfacing once your mocs are done.

DOUBLE CHECK! Bumpy side of interfacing is up. Fuzzy side of mocs is up (wrong side is against interfacing).

Now, heat up your iron to high and over your mocs with a thin pressing cloth.
Pressing cloth- check!


Feel for the edges of your mocs so you know where to iron...
And iron! Check to ensure that the interfacing is adhering to the microsuede.
Make sure the interfacing is good and stuck to your mocs, and then cut them out (including the slit).

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